Walking and climbing at all levels
The Costa Blanca is the winter sun rock capital for sport climbers from all over
Europe. It is now the norm to spot a few duvet clad comrades amongst the
conventional holidaymakers when collecting baggage from the carousel at the
airport, the majority arriving from colder points north hoping to bag a week or
two of prime Spanish limestone sport climbing and perhaps a more adventurous day
out on the many peaks of the region.
Masses of different sport crags with convenient access, cheap accommodation, budget
flights and plenty of sun have served many teams well over the years and once
hooked its hard to look elsewhere.
“No other winter rock climbing destination in Europe offers the combination of
reliable weather in conjunction with the diversity of climbing on
offer.”
The potential for wintertime sport climbing fun for those from the cold north was
first exposed by two guidebooks one German and one English at the start of the
90's and from that point in time onward things have moved on apace to what now
seems a healthy maturity today. No other winter rock climbing destination in
Europe offers the combination of reliable weather in conjunction with the
diversity of climbing on offer. This diversity covers virtually all climbers'
needs ranging from low grade sport climbs, Via Ferattas and scrambling through
to top grade sport climbs and long multi-pitch routes both adjacent to the
sea and high in the coastal mountain ranges.
The Climbing
The sheer volume of routes to go at and the reasonably large area throughout the
region where the crags and mountains are located makes things slightly
overwhelming when it comes to a choice of venue to stay and climb, however the
following section of this feature gives a condensed overview of what is on offer
and where, and will provide some ideas that includes venues old and new to head
for for both the first time winter visitor or the old hand winter
migrant.
The most popular style of climbing that visitors to the Costa Blanca come for is
pure sport climbing and these crags don't disappoint. Added to the sport
climbing on the more conventional crags are some big multi pitch sport climbs
along with a whole host of big trad climbs that many include in the holiday
itinerary although a whole series of visits could be made climbing on the
mountain traditional lines alone. Finally there has been a steady number of
additions to the line-up of routes on new cliffs along with some documentation
of the Deep Water Soloing venues and the exposed ridges dotted around the
mountains and coast.
The initial pull of the Costa Blanca for winter climbing visitors were the
accessible crags that surround the seaside town of Calpe with Sierra
de Toix , Mascarat Gorge and Altea being
many folks intro to the delights to be had a couple of hours away from rain and
snow.
A little further out the bulging grey and orange streaked limestone
of Gandia leans out over an orange grove and like its waterside cousin done much to promote the benefits of the area to the
masses. As the 90's progressed the crags of Sella , Forada , Marin and Reconco gathered popularity, their grade span
and idyllic locations leaving few disappointed.
Latterly even more crags have come to the fore and for even the most regular of visitors there is always
something new to be tackled at spots like Los Pinos , Cabezon de Oro and Pego .
The Mountains And The Penon de Ifach Perhaps
the crowning glory of any trip to the Costa Blanca, and the one aspect that sets
it above many other winter sun spots is the possibility of knocking off a big
multi-pitch route in shorts and a tee-shirt at Christmas.
The iconic dolomitic seaside walls of the Penon de Ifach that
rears up above the harbour at Calpe is not easy to ignore and its classic routes
a better xmas present is hard to imagine.
Inland the mountains have also provided the same excitement supreme above them
all being the Puig Campana that dominates and dwarfs the skyscrapers of Benidorm. The magnificent spur of Espolón Central is not to be missed or taken too lightly as it is a long way up and down and the short winter days have caught
out numerous late starters or slower teams
When is the best time to visit?
The best season for sport climbing runs from late September to May.
During this time the air temperature is usually ideal and rainfall is not as a rule a problem.
Summer is very hot even in the mountains but with plenty of drinking water and
an early morning start the ridges and the easier high mountain routes and Via
Ferattas should be manageable.
Deep Water Soloing is a possibility at all times although in the late winter and early spring the water temperature will be
cold.
Europe. It is now the norm to spot a few duvet clad comrades amongst the
conventional holidaymakers when collecting baggage from the carousel at the
airport, the majority arriving from colder points north hoping to bag a week or
two of prime Spanish limestone sport climbing and perhaps a more adventurous day
out on the many peaks of the region.
Masses of different sport crags with convenient access, cheap accommodation, budget
flights and plenty of sun have served many teams well over the years and once
hooked its hard to look elsewhere.
“No other winter rock climbing destination in Europe offers the combination of
reliable weather in conjunction with the diversity of climbing on
offer.”
The potential for wintertime sport climbing fun for those from the cold north was
first exposed by two guidebooks one German and one English at the start of the
90's and from that point in time onward things have moved on apace to what now
seems a healthy maturity today. No other winter rock climbing destination in
Europe offers the combination of reliable weather in conjunction with the
diversity of climbing on offer. This diversity covers virtually all climbers'
needs ranging from low grade sport climbs, Via Ferattas and scrambling through
to top grade sport climbs and long multi-pitch routes both adjacent to the
sea and high in the coastal mountain ranges.
The Climbing
The sheer volume of routes to go at and the reasonably large area throughout the
region where the crags and mountains are located makes things slightly
overwhelming when it comes to a choice of venue to stay and climb, however the
following section of this feature gives a condensed overview of what is on offer
and where, and will provide some ideas that includes venues old and new to head
for for both the first time winter visitor or the old hand winter
migrant.
The most popular style of climbing that visitors to the Costa Blanca come for is
pure sport climbing and these crags don't disappoint. Added to the sport
climbing on the more conventional crags are some big multi pitch sport climbs
along with a whole host of big trad climbs that many include in the holiday
itinerary although a whole series of visits could be made climbing on the
mountain traditional lines alone. Finally there has been a steady number of
additions to the line-up of routes on new cliffs along with some documentation
of the Deep Water Soloing venues and the exposed ridges dotted around the
mountains and coast.
The initial pull of the Costa Blanca for winter climbing visitors were the
accessible crags that surround the seaside town of Calpe with Sierra
de Toix , Mascarat Gorge and Altea being
many folks intro to the delights to be had a couple of hours away from rain and
snow.
A little further out the bulging grey and orange streaked limestone
of Gandia leans out over an orange grove and like its waterside cousin done much to promote the benefits of the area to the
masses. As the 90's progressed the crags of Sella , Forada , Marin and Reconco gathered popularity, their grade span
and idyllic locations leaving few disappointed.
Latterly even more crags have come to the fore and for even the most regular of visitors there is always
something new to be tackled at spots like Los Pinos , Cabezon de Oro and Pego .
The Mountains And The Penon de Ifach Perhaps
the crowning glory of any trip to the Costa Blanca, and the one aspect that sets
it above many other winter sun spots is the possibility of knocking off a big
multi-pitch route in shorts and a tee-shirt at Christmas.
The iconic dolomitic seaside walls of the Penon de Ifach that
rears up above the harbour at Calpe is not easy to ignore and its classic routes
a better xmas present is hard to imagine.
Inland the mountains have also provided the same excitement supreme above them
all being the Puig Campana that dominates and dwarfs the skyscrapers of Benidorm. The magnificent spur of Espolón Central is not to be missed or taken too lightly as it is a long way up and down and the short winter days have caught
out numerous late starters or slower teams
When is the best time to visit?
The best season for sport climbing runs from late September to May.
During this time the air temperature is usually ideal and rainfall is not as a rule a problem.
Summer is very hot even in the mountains but with plenty of drinking water and
an early morning start the ridges and the easier high mountain routes and Via
Ferattas should be manageable.
Deep Water Soloing is a possibility at all times although in the late winter and early spring the water temperature will be
cold.